Posts Tagged ‘vegetarian’

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A simple garlic broth with tortellini, tomatoes, and fresh garden herbs, and a lifelong friend, Amy

Wednesday, March 17th, 2010

Garlic herb soup with tomato and tortellini

There is something very special about the friends, and the foods, of our youth. We tend to carry them close to our hearts, and it is often these tastes, and these friends, that in old age if someone were to ask, “What meal do you wish to be your last?” or, “What friend do you want near?” that would prompt thoughts of cherished dishes from childhood, and of the dear friends kept close from our youth. During a time when we were more naive, more vulnerable, and exploring our identities without the expectations of adultishness holding us back, someone saw something raw, something beautiful, something lovable about us – and chose us. A friend. An Amy.

The story of this soup, of Amy, and of my interests in cooking and art intersect in a beautiful weave that I am happy not to unravel. Although I was acquaintances with Amy early in college, it was not until she lived a few dorm rooms down the hall during our junior year that I truly got to know her. I can still remember her room – light, with a pale soft sea green comforter and white billowy pillows, everything perfectly in its place, it breathed beauty and effortlessness, so unlike my own room – always struggling to keep its clothes in its drawers, and with papers overflowing binders and tucked every-which-way into book sleeves.

Garden rosemaryGarden rosemary

Everything about Amy breathes artistry. Art comprises the essence of her being, and always has, from what I can tell. Wherever Amy goes, whatever Amy does, she creates beauty. She is purposeful, methodical, deliberate, inspiring. Very few people have influenced me like Amy. She is a photographer, a designer and painter, a video editor, a world traveler, a uniquely creative cook, and most importantly, and often undeservingly on my part, a lifelong friend.

And it is Amy who first made me this soup about a decade ago when we became roommates the summer after that junior year in college, and I still make it several times a year. I’d say this is a lifelong soup.

Garlic smashed

The base of the soup is a simple garlic broth created by crushing and sautéing a whole head of garlic in a bit of olive oil, just until the garlic has infused the oil and is no longer raw, but not yet brown, and then vegetable or chicken stock is added, along with a few sprigs of fresh herbs such as thyme, sage, and a handful of fresh parsley.

We keep an herb garden not far from our kitchen out the back door, where I tend to use whatever fresh herbs are thriving and available. In this case, rosemary, oregano, and sage.

Tortellini

From here, the soup can take many forms. You can add a wide variation of vegetables, greens, beans, pastas, chicken or tofu, or even a bit of saffron, but the addition of tomatoes and tortellini is how Amy introduced it to me, and thus it has become my way.

At its heart, it is a variation of the classic Italian dish “Tortellini en brodo” or “tortellini in broth” and it is one of the most satisfying meals I can imagine. Chewy al dente tortellini filled with little wedges of soft cheese are nestled next to a savory broth, richly flavored from the infusion of garlic, ripe tomatoes, and fresh Italian herbs. Finished with sprinklings of fresh parsley, gratings of a nice aged parmesan reggiano, and a hot out of the oven tear of crusty bread, and at this moment I cannot find room beside my adoration for this soup to think of a meal I love more.

Garden OreganoGarden sageGarden SageGarden oregano

At an influential time in my youth, it was Amy who first introduced me to such things as making homemade pasta, cooking with and growing my own fresh herbs, using lavender as a spice, and unique twists on traditional favorites such as sweet potato quesadillas and mango salsa.

It was Amy who sparked my interest in photography, it was Amy who made up crazy silly songs with my brother and me and then animated my stuffed bear to sing along, and it was Amy who was there when my father died at the end of that summer in college; it was Amy who was still there six months later, not afraid to stand in the shadow of death or look me in the eye, and hold me as I cried… And it is still Amy who is there. Thank you, friend.

Beautiful Amy Amy in field of flowers. Photo courtesy of Amy’s sister in law, Cara Lavarone.

Simple garlic broth with tortellini, tomatoes, and garden herbs
adapted from Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home (Tomato garlic soup with tortellini)

8 cups vegetable or chicken stock
3 cups diced tomatoes or 5 medium fresh tomatoes (about 4 cups chopped)
12 ounces fresh cheese filled tortellini
3 tablespoons minced fresh garlic (1 large or 2 small heads)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 sprig fresh sage
1 sprig fresh thyme
several sprigs fresh parsley and more, chopped, for serving
sea or kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
freshly grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

In a covered pot, bring the stock to a boil. In a soup pot on low heat, gently saute the garlic in the olive oil until golden, taking care not to let it brown. Add the boiling stock. Stir in the paprika. Tie the sage, thyme, and parsley into a little bundle with string, and add the “bouquet” to the pot (you may also chop the herbs and add straight into the soup – this is what I do). Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, add tomatoes, and simmer for an additional 10 to 15 minutes. Adjust for salt and pepper to taste.

In a separate pot, cook tortellini until al dente, usually 4-5 minutes (check package directions) for fresh tortellini. When ready to serve, place tortellini in individual bowls and ladle the soup over them. Serve topped with grated cheese and chopped parsley.

Note: You may omit the tomatoes and/or the tortellini and add other pasta, vegetables, greens, potatoes, peas, chicken – so many possibilities! Also, this easily serves 6-8 people, so I often freeze just some of the broth to pull out and cook with a new package of fresh tortellini for an easy and delicious last minute meal.

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Posted in Main Courses - Vegetarian | 16 Comments »

Roasted brussels sprouts with olive oil and fresh lemon

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

My experience with brussels sprouts is a bit like my experience with people – first impressions are not always the last impressions. It happens more often than I’d like to admit that just as I feel I’ve gotten someone all figured out, I am suddenly and swiftly smacked smartly across the cheek by an enlightening discovery, thereby unveiling my certain capacity for fallible judgment. While such a discovery may be disheartening, at its best, it illuminates unseen beauty and merit, and in an instant, what had been previously rejected becomes tangible, relatable, and intensely desirable. Brussels sprouts and I have just this kind of personal history.

Pretty little sprout leaf by lkwm on dRcPretty little sprout leaf2 by lkwm on dRcPicking off loose leaves by lkwm on dRcBrussels laid out by lkwm on dRcBrussels laid out by lkwm on dRc

My childhood first impressions of these adorable rolly polly wild cabbages need little embellishment, as they are shared by many a child far and wide yet today. Mushy. Slimy. Stinky. Growing up, my mother did not make brussels sprouts (that I remember), but somehow I had enough knowledge of and endearment to their notorious reputation to fondly refer to them as “brussels brains.”

One leaf left by lkwm on dRcImpressions of one leaf by lkwm on dRcSprouts halved and strewn by lkwm on dRcLeaf and base by lkwm on dRc

However, during college, shortly after my mother married my stepfather and long after my judgement of the petite little cerebrals at hand was firmly set in place, my stepfather prepared for me some fresh brussels sprouts. Really? Are you sure these are brussels sprouts? I thought brussels sprouts were BAD.  How can this be? Brussels brains cannot actually be GOOD.

Lemon halved by lkwm on dRcLemon sliced by lkwm on dRcLemon sliced by lkwm on dRc

The thing is, I had never had fresh brussels sprouts, cooked right. If you’ve never had brussels sprouts, please try them this way. First. And do not overcook them. The reason brussels sprouts have gotten such a bad rap is two fold. One is the fact that eighty plus percent of brussels sprouts sold in the U.S. are frozen. I have no problem with many frozen vegetables, however, brussels sprouts are one where it is difficult to recover the pleasingly firm texture and delicate nutty flavor once frozen and defrosted. Secondly, brussels sprouts contain sinigrin, an amazing health agent, however, when overcooked, disintegrates into a mustard oil that smells (and tastes?!) like sulphur.

Sprout bath in sunlight by lkwm on dRc

Oven roasting is a beautiful way to prepare brussels sprouts, creating a slightly crisp outer leaf while retaining a firm texture throughout, thereby banishing for good all slimy “brussels brains” childhood impressions. I like to cut my sprouts in half so I can get more seasoning over more surface area, and in this preparation, the the olive oil gives strong compliments to the nutty sprout flavor alongside generous sprinklings of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. But what takes this simple recipe over the top, is just as simple itself. Drizzle each portion with fresh squeezes of lemon juice and you have a side dish or light lunch that sings fresh, tangy, salty, earthy, nutty, and not easily forgotten.

Sprouts ready to roast by lkwm on dRcJust out of the oven by lkwm on dRcRoasted! by lkwm on dRcRoasted brussel sprouts in the evening light by lkwm on dRc

Roasted brussels sprouts with olive oil and fresh lemon

3/4 lb. (12 ounces) brussels sprouts*
1 tablespoon olive oil*
1/4 teaspoon of fine sea salt
several cracks of freshly ground black pepper
1/4 – 1/3 fresh lemon cut into slices or juiced (to taste)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove outer leaves and bases and cut each sprout in half. Swirl sprouts in a tepid water bath to wash and remove any embedded dirt. Remove and pat to dry. Put sprouts in a medium bowl and toss to coat with olive oil, sea salt, and pepper to taste. Line a baking dish with aluminum foil and spread sprouts out evenly in dish. Bake for 13-16 minutes, depending on the size of the sprouts. Sneak a sprout out to test for doneness – I prefer most veggies rather firm, so you may wish a longer cooking time, just remember, sprouts are ruined by overcooking, so keep watch! During the last minute or two of baking, if you desire some browned and crispy edges, you may wish to turn the broiler on. Place sprouts either in a serving bowl and drizzle with lemon juice, or serve in individual dishes with a nice lemon wedge alongside (this is how I do it, thus it is difficult for me to say exactly how much lemon, but I know I use at least 1/4 of a medium lemon for this amount of sprouts). This makes about three side dish servings, one large, or two smaller light meal portions – may be scaled as desired.

* Smaller, younger sprouts tend to be more tender and have a more delicate flavor.
* You can taste the flavor of the olive oil so pick your favorite – a light, buttery and not overbearing variety would be perfect.

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Posted in Side dishes | 24 Comments »

Farfalle pasta with Oven dried tomatoes

Monday, January 25th, 2010

Farfalle pasta with oven dried tomatoes by LKWM on dRc
I told you last week how I went gaga over these oven dried tomatoes, so I created a pasta to give them a stage to show off their stuff. But as it turns out, there are so many zippy flavors and satisfying textures here that it seems unfair to give accolades to any one character over another, but here’s my go at it: There are the tomatoes, yes, but also cubes of fresh mozzarella that get all soft and melty when tucked into the warm pasta, and I can’t forget the basil, olive oil, garlic, parmesan, and pine nuts that create a type of deconstructed pesto sauce, picked up by the addition of balsamic vinegar and lemon zest. And the heart of palm…Do you know about this delicate artichoke-esque vegetable harvested from the core of certain palm trees? So wonderful.
Asparagus tips in light by lauraWM on dRc
What I love about pasta is that while you set water out to boil and let your farfalle bobble away in that pot of boiling water, you can use this 20 minutes or so to prepare a couple of ingredients, make a quick sauce – and by the time the pasta is a perfect al dente – Voila!  Dinner is complete.
Heart of palm by lkwm on dRcSliced tomatoes by lauraWm on dRCAsparagus with ends cut by lkwm on dRc
If you’ve ever wondered how much asparagus’ ends to cut off (the ends are quite tough), here’s a quick tip:  hold a stalk at the cut off end with one hand, and hold the middle of the stalk with the other hand, and bend to break. Where the stalk breaks is where it begins to be tender for eating. Use this length as a guide to quickly cut off all the rest of the stalks to the proper length.
Parboiling asparagus by lkwm on dRcDraining pasta and asparagus by lkwm on dRc
If you want to consolidate pots and prep time (who doesn’t?), parboil the asparagus with the pasta in the last couple of minutes of the pasta cooking time. Then simply drain the pasta and vegetable together at the same time. If you are not familiar with the term parboil, it simply means to partially cook, or quickly boil a veggie for 1-2 minutes, lightly cooking it while retaining crispness. Sometimes the veggie is then cooked further (as in a stir fry or risotto) or at other times parboiling is enough.  I like my veggies crisp, so in this dish, I think a quick parboil is just right. Classic parboiling calls for a rinse in cold water to retain color and completely stop the cooking, but I do not like to rinse my pasta, so in this case, I forgo this step for the asparagus in the name of convenience – but you may cook them separately, if desired.
Shitake mushrooms by lkwm on dRcSauteing shitakes with garlic by lkwm on dRcAdding parmesan to pasta by lkwm on dRc
This is a relatively simple dish, and though I adore the oven dried tomatoes here, I have to concede that if you are pressed for time, oil packed sun dried tomatoes would likely work as an acceptable substitute. It makes enough for 6-8 people, so it could easily serve as a beautiful all inclusive company meal.  Or, you might be like my husband and myself, and be happy to have leftovers that do not grow tiresome even on the third night and still taste fresh enough to serve to the unexpected guest – such as S., who showed up on leftover night #3, on a rather predictable spontaneous whim.

Perhaps many things remain seen, or tasted, through rose colored glasses when there are pregnancy hormones coursing through a woman’s veins, but my inspiration for this pasta came from two different dishes around the time of J.’s birth – the first at the baby shower S. threw for me, and the second brought to me directly postpartum. One had olives, peas, and sun dried tomatoes, and the latter – grilled chicken and more olive oil than I have used here – but both delicious, and both nourishing to more than just my physical body.
Oven dried tomatoes in light by LKWM on dRc
Farfalle pasta with oven dried tomatoes
Serves 6-8, may be halved
16 oz. farfalle pasta (I used whole wheat), cooked al dente, with 1/4 cup pasta water reserved
1 bunch of asparagus, (about 30 stalks), tough ends trimmed off (see post) and stalks cut into 2 inch pieces
5-6 oven dried tomatoes, using this recipe (you could substitute 1 jar oil packed sun dried tomatoes, drained)
1 14 oz can of heart of palm, drained and diced into third inch circles
1 large bunch of fresh basil (about 15-20 leaves) sliced into thin strips
3/4 cup + 1/2 cup fresh grated hard Italian cheese – parmesan, pecorino romano (if you use pre-grated cheese, start with 1/2 cup and add more to taste)
8 oz. fresh mozzarella or fontina cheese, cut into 3/4 inch cubes
4 cloves garlic minced, or finely chopped
1 – 1 1/2 cups rinsed and sliced shitake or baby portobello mushrooms
1/4 cup + 1 tablespoon olive oil
1/8 cup + 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
.6 oz package pine nuts, toasted (2 – 3 minutes in toaster oven or skillet – they burn quickly so keep watch)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt (to taste)
zest from 1/2 lemon
several cracks of freshly ground black pepper
1. Prepare oven dried tomatoes beginning two and half hours before serving time.
2. Start boiling water for pasta according to package directions to cook pasta al dente.
3. While pasta water is heating and pasta is cooking, slice asparagus, heart of palm,  basil leaves, and mushrooms; mince garlic, zest lemon, grate hard cheese, cube soft cheese, and toast pine nuts.
4. When the pasta has two minutes left to cook, add asparagus to the boiling pasta and water (this is called parboiling, see post). After 1.5 to 2 minutes, drain pasta and asparagus together, reserving 1/4 cup of pasta water (I like to drain my pasta over a wide bowl and then use the “caught” water later, if needed). Drizzle and toss 1 tablespoon olive oil with the pasta and asparagus in the colander to keep moist and prevent the pasta from sticking together.
5. Heat olive oil in large pan till shimmering, add minced garlic and cook for about 30 seconds (do not brown), add mushrooms and cook until just softened through- about two minutes, depending on size and thickness of mushrooms.
6. Add warm pasta with asparagus to the pan.  Add balsamic vinegar, 3/4 cup grated cheese, lemon zest, salt and pepper to taste, and toss to cover pasta.  If pasta needs more moisture, add pasta water 1 teaspoon at a time – or additional olive oil and balsamic vinegar to taste.  Discard unused pasta water.
7. Add rest of ingredients, minus extra grated cheese and basil for topping – or arrange pasta in individual dishes and place remaining ingredients attractively on top.  Top each serving with a spoonful of the grated cheese and sliced basil. May also be served cold or at room temperature.
* If reheating leftovers, its nice to sprinkle the pasta with a few drops of water, bit of extra balsamic vinegar, and a dash of kosher or sea salt to bring it back to five star status.

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Posted in pasta | 9 Comments »

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