Gruyère, leek, asparagus, shitake, and roasted cherry heirloom tomato tart

April 19th, 2010

Slice of tart served

We have had over a week full of sunny days perfect for being outside. I always feel I have missed something I can never get back if I do not spend time outside on gorgeous days like we are having now.

Cherry heirlooms

Little Jonathan wants nothing less, banging at the back door, grabbing at the door knob at every moment he is not eating or sleeping, unable to contain his enthusiasm for exploring all the nooks and crannies of our yard, smelling the flowers, and making full use of these newly balmy spring days.

“No, Jonathan, do not put rocks in the garden,” we seem to be saying over and over, as if on tape, on replay.

Cherry heirlooms sliced

We went and picked out flowers at the nursery last week and Brian planted them by the mailbox and around the house. This means so much to me. We are slowly building a collection of perennials in our flower beds and I get excited each spring when I see the first wave of blooms unfold.

“I want to make something beautiful this week,” I thought to myself.

Slicing leeks

Asparagus dicedLeeks sliced


I’ve been a tart admirer for some time now, both savory and sweet. I love how tarts are so casually sophisticated, with their endless possibilities of fillings, carefully supported by a flaky, buttery crust, and adorned with beautiful, often avant-garde, garnishings. They are an ideal canvas for experimentation, as well as turning humble ingredients into art. Yet, in all their artistry, they remain perfectly suited for a simple lunch or brunch. Yes, tarts have a certain restrained panache. I like that about them.

“A tart will be perfect,” I decided.

Tart sliced

When I was living and working in D.C. shortly after college, I would occasionally find myself in a la Madeleine cafe (do you know the ones?) sipping coffee, and encountering some of my very first tarts. I am quite certain they serve any number and variety of tarts there, however, those that stand out in my memory are of the sweet variety, made with a soft creamy custard filling and topped with a simple but elegant assortment of fresh berries. These petite tarts, or tartlettes, were one of my favorite treats.


I have not been to a la Madeleine in years, and truthfully I do not know how good the tarts are in reality, but that does not really matter. What matters is that the essence and concept of the tart made a strong enough impression on my subconscious to be carried into the present and push me towards giving it a go in my own kitchen this week, even if it took seven years to achieve this.

Yes, this was my very first homemade tart!

Thyme, bay leaf, and Vermouth

After plenty of poking around, I also honestly do not know if it would be more appropriate to call this a quiche, since it is baked with eggs, milk and cream, or, if since it was baked in a “tart pan” and is relatively slender and full of vegetables, if it may rightly pass as a savory tart. In the end, I simply like the sound of “savory tart” over that of “quiche.” So, for now – save being duly informed otherwise – I will call it a savory tart.

flour and butterDough rolled

Tart dough

I couldn’t find a recipe that combined all the ingredients and flavors I was craving, so I decided to blend all my research into one recipe that consisted of a bit of everything I wanted. But lest you tune me out now, having already admitted that this was my first tart attempt, I am happy to share my concoction of inspiration – I’m sure you know many of them well - from this, to this, and this, and even a consultation with this.

Dough in tart pan

I sauteed leeks and shitake mushrooms with thyme from our garden, bay leaf, and a splash of Vermouth and set them under a layer of small dice fresh spring asparagus, all blanketed by a surprisingly light tasting cover of egg, Greek yogurt, milk and cream, Gruyère, pinch of nutmeg, sea salt, ground pepper, and Parmesan.

For the crust I decided to use part whole wheat pastry flour to impart a nutty quality without adding weight, and an addition of grated Parmesan for additional depth of flavor and character.

Finally, I dotted roasted heirloom cherry tomatoes on top, which resulted in a welcome sour and chewy contrast to the overall delicate nature and flavor profile of the filling.

Tart dough in pan

“That was different from any quiche I’ve ever had,” Brian said to me after we finished our first slices, making me a little nervous to hear what was to follow.

“It’s like I was tasting real quiche for the first time!” he exclaimed. “I don’t know how hard this is to make, but we could make this all summer long using the vegetables from the garden!”

I laughed. Apparently, at least one person has no qualms whatsoever in calling my tart “quiche,” just so long as it is not my last.

Ready for bakingWork surface

Tart complete

Gruyère, leek, asparagus, shitake, and roasted heirloom cherry tomato tart

1 recipe for savory tart crust to fit a 10″ tart pan
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup Greek Yogurt (higher fat percent is preferable)*
1/2 cup half & half, heavy cream, whole milk, or combination of these*
1/2 t. sea salt
1 T. butter
2 1/2 T. olive oil
1 1/2 T. Vermouth or dry white wine
1 bay leaf
6 sprigs fresh thyme
pinch or two of nutmeg – according to your preference for nutmeg
3 oz. Gruyère cheese (about 1 1/2 cups loosely packed)
1 oz. freshly grated Parmesan (about 1/3 cup loosely packed)
8 asparagus stems, cut into half inch diagonals
6 oz. leeks, white parts only, cut into thin circles (2 leeks)
4 oz. shitake mushrooms, washed, stems removed, cut in slivers
About 20 small cherry heirloom tomatoes, if available, or Roma/plum tomatoes (may sub thinly cut slivers of sun dried tomatoes)
1 t. balsamic vinegar
natural sugar
sea salt and ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Begin by preparing the tomatoes for roasting by cutting in half, placing in a bowl, drizzling with 1/2 T. olive oil, splash of balsamic vinegar, light sprinkling of natural sugar and sea salt and pepper, carefully mixing to coat, and laying tomatoes on foil on a cookie sheet with seeds facing up. Roast for 45 minutes and set aside.

Now make the tart dough, with the idea that by the time the dough is ready and had its 30 minute fridge time, the tomatoes will be out of the oven.

While the tomatoes roast and the dough sits in the fridge, saute leeks in the butter, 1 T. olive oil, bay leaf, and three sprigs thyme till beginning to wilt, about five minutes, and then add mushrooms, 1 T. olive oil, Vermouth, and salt and pepper to taste, allowing to cook another five minutes, or until leaks and mushrooms are just soft. Remove bay leaf and thyme sprigs. In the mean time, parboil the asparagus by boiling three cups water, and adding the asparagus to the boiling water for 1 minute. Rinse hot asparagus in cold water to stop the cooking. Whisk egg, Greek yogurt, 1/2 t. salt (and pepper to taste), pinch or two of nutmeg, and half & half together to combine. Finally, add in the Gruyère.

Fill the par-baked tart crust by spreading the leek mushroom mixture evenly over the bottom of the crust, then add the parboiled asparagus evenly on top. Next, pour the egg cheese mixture over the vegetables. Finally, sprinkle the top with the parmesan.

Place the tart in the oven and set the timer for 20 minutes. Remove the tart at 20 minutes, and add the roasted tomatoes evenly across the top. The idea is for the tart top to be partially solidified so that the tomatoes do not sink into the tart, yet the tart is still soft enough to cook around the bottoms of the tomatoes and keep them in place. Return the tart to the oven for another 20 minutes, or until the top begins to brown and the tart is set. Allow to cool on a wire wrack for at least 15 minutes before cutting. Add extra sprigs of thyme for garnish.

* I used a 2% Greek yogurt, but mascarpone cheese or sour cream would likely make good substitutes and would yield a richer, creamier tart.

* I used a combination of whole milk and half and half, but thought it would have been nice a bit creamier – you may decide based on whether you want an overall lighter taste, or richer, creamier taste.

Savory whole grain tart crust with parmesan

1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour*
3/4 cup pastry flour (can use regular all purpose flour)
1 T cornstarch
3/4 (.75) oz. finely grated fresh Parmesan cheese
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 egg yolks
2 1/2 Tablespoons buttermilk
6 Tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 8-12 pieces

Lightly beat the egg yolks and buttermilk and set aside. In a food processor (or using a fork or pastry knife and a bowl, working quickly), combine flours, cornstarch, salt, and cheese and pulse a couple of times to combine. Add cold butter to the flour mixture and pulse another few times to turn mixture into sand like texture with some pea sized bits of butter remaining. Working quickly (you want to keep the butter cold without melting the little lumps and without strengthening the gluten by over handling the flour in order to produce a light flaky crust), pour the flour butter mixture into a medium bowl and add the beaten egg, stirring just to combine and bring mixture together. When mixture is beginning to clump together, dump onto a work surface and press dough together to form a ball. You may need to wet your fingertips with ice water a few times to add a small amount of moisture needed to achieve this. Try to handle the dough and add as little water as possible to make a cohesive dough. Flatten the dough into a 5 inch round, wrap in plastic wrap, place in the fridge for 45 minutes or up to 36 hours (allowing the gluten to relax so the dough will roll out more easily).

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Turn dough out on well floured work surface and roll into a 12-13 inch circle with a flat rolling pin. Again, use ice water on the fingertips to solidify the dough, only if needed, and as small amount as possible. Roll the lightly floured dough over the rolling pin in order to transfer into a 9 or 10 inch tart pan. Gently push dough into the pan and use the rolling pin to roll around the edges of the pan to trim off the excess crust. Using a fork, prick the surface and sides of the dough. Par-bake the crust by placing in the oven for 12 minutes. Remove crust and allow to cool at least five minutes on a wire wrack before adding tart filling and baking further.*

* You may substitute regular whole wheat flour, but in that case, I would not use more than a 1:3 ratio whole wheat to white flour and would recommend white whole wheat flour.

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Posted in vegetarian | 28 Comments »

28 Responses to “Gruyère, leek, asparagus, shitake, and roasted cherry heirloom tomato tart”

  1. I JUST made an heirloom tomato tart–two days ago! Great minds think alike! Although I have to admit, mine didn’t quite turn out the way I’d hoped. I looked absolutely lovely, but tasted…ok. Not blog-worthy! It’s on the “working” recipe list. As for yours, it looks divine and I’m sure it tastes even better. As always the photos are amazing!

    • laura says:

      I bet you are being modest about your tart… this was very good, but I am excited to experiment with different variations – I just made one with pancetta today!

  2. grace says:

    i think very few things are as beautiful as heirloom tomatoes. this tart is lovely–amazing debut! :)

    • laura says:

      Thank you, grace! I can’t resist heirlooms- they make me feel all French Provence when I see them!

  3. Catherine says:

    Wow! Laura, I think “savory tart” is a perfect name for this “quiche”, and how wonderful even a man will vouch for liking it! Is there any way you would consider selling (much larger) photos of the tomatoes (both pictures); my kitchen is in need of these!

  4. What is that they say about great mind? I am doing something so similiar to this tonight! Yours is beautiful. Have been waiting for a new post from you. The photography is fantastic!

  5. Oh my! Change the spelling to fantastic. I cannot stand it!

    • laura says:

      I love that you asked me to fix this – I hate it when I click “post comment” and then see a typo. Fixed!

  6. Cherine says:

    This tart is fantastic! I’m completely drooling! Great shots!

  7. Barbara says:

    Heirloom tomatoes are beautiful! And make such a lovely presentation in salads, along with being very tasty.
    We love quiches and savory tarts at my house and this one is a winner! Gruyere has such a tangy flavor; it’s perfect in your tart. I’ve made Ina Garten’s tomato tart, but this has a little more body to it.
    It’s lovely, Laura!

    • laura says:

      Thank you, Barbara! I have not seen Ina’s tart recipe, but I do like many things she does – I will have to look it up! This was one of my first times cooking with gruyère and we really enjoyed it’s tangy, mellow and nutty flavor.

  8. Mary says:

    Laura, your tart is gorgeous and I can taste all those flavors playing on my tongue. I stopped by your blog just to say hello but was lured by great photos to your other posts. I really love what you are doing here. I’ll be back often to see what you have been cooking. Have a wonderful day. Blessings…Mary

    • laura says:

      Mary – thank you for taking the time to write a note and for your kind words – it makes the time spent on this blog seem worthwhile. ~laura

  9. elra says:

    They don’t just look pretty, they also sounds delicious. Thanks for sharing the recipe.

  10. Amy says:

    I can just hear Brian saying that your “quiche” was very different, and pausing forever before he goes on to tell you that he loves it. Funny guy! This sounds lovely, and has lots of panache.

  11. Joy says:

    Laura I love your blog. Your pictures are just beautiful. I love your use of color the composition, just everything. This is definitely a beautiful quiche, I love the surprise of the shitake mushrooms inside :)

    • laura says:

      Thanks so much, Joy! I keep trying new things with my camera and am trying to develop a rhythm and personal style. I appreciate your feedback; and the shitakes are indeed very nice in the quiche!

  12. Liz says:

    I read this post a few days ago and I am STILL thinking about it! What I really need are some individual tart pans because the boyfriend doesn’t like eggs (unless they’re hardboiled or hiding in sweet and sour soup [in which case, he doesn't know they're there]) and I couldn’t eat a whole tart-quiche by myself fast enough.

    Roasted tomatoes are also one of my favorite things in the whole wide world. In fact, I’m making a flank steak tonight, and I think I will throw some campari tomatoes that I have in the oven to go on top.

  13. kristen says:

    Hi, I just returned from Paris and while there ate a delicious quiche/tarte with carmelized onions, leeks, mushrooms, bacon, and goat cheese. Not a surprising combination, but it was described as a tarte on the menu yet was a custardy-egg base like a quiche with a lighter than air taste. It was baked in a tart shell with an extremely thin crust.

    Your recipe is the only one I’ve found that even sounds close to the texture of what I had. Can you tell me if the egg mixture, once baked, tasted very light and allowed all the flavors to come out?

    Excited to try this!

    • laura says:

      Hi kristen – yes, the filling was indeed light and I believe would allow many different filling flavors to come out. The fillings in this particular recipe are also rather light, so the whole tart overall had a delicate flavor profile. Goat cheese and bacon sound like beautiful additions! Let me know if you experiment. ~ laura


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